We arrive at the hotel on Friday and settle in, contemplate the sun going down on Mount Ameztia which prompts us to leave the room and enjoy this setting. We head towards Irun, and going via Doneztebe we arrive at Lesaka, a curious town with a medieval quarter and an industrial quarter that give it that complete flavour of a living town. In the town centre there is the casino, where we go for a cider and order a Spanish omelette. We visit the ancient quarter, which is cut off from the rest of the town by a small river. It is getting late and we go to the hotel restaurant. Today we felt like a vegetarian dinner, for which we had placed an order with Lorea when we made our reservation: borage cream soup, leek rolls, grilled cow’s cheese and green pepper, and home-made mamia. We finish with Sienta Bien tea and go to our room.
After breakfast, we take the N121-B and at Arraioz, we stop to see Jauregizarea, a palace and women’s prison during the Inquisition. We continue towards the viewpoint at Baztan, and from Irurita we go to Ziga, Aniz and Elizondo.
We stop to visit the Jorge Oteiza Ethnographic Museum and continue on the road to Urdax.
We stop in Amaiur and climb the small hill, walking through and taking in this small town. Descending the Alto de Otxondo, we feel that the magical world of Zugarramurdi is getting closer.
The caves of Urdax and of Zugarramurdi, the monastery and the witch museum: it all absorbs us the whole day. At a small bar, we have some Mandragora liquor and head to the hotel.
For dinner, we will nibble on. We have fried blood sausage, Oitz cheese with nuts and quince. A little cider. We listen to the river as we sip on Sienta Bien house tea. Gabon!